I had been invited before to a Monk Ceremony and I had turned the invitation down but this time I was told what to expect before and I felt very comfortable about going along for three days to Surin after an invitation from a good Thai friend called Oad, a Farang friend of mine and his boyfriend made up the party.     In fact the three of us stayed at a hotel there but the village of Ban Phok was some 70 kms further on so we had a trek each day and it was an early start for us to be sure to get there in time for each of the two days events.

On the journey upcountry we had been held up badly in Bangkok traffic so we were late and a dash to the Temple for Oad to meet the Head Monk and complete his registration on day one. 
We were all invited along with his father and the Monk was very human asking us where we had come from and joked a few times in Thai of course, my Farang friend speaks Thai, which was a help on many occasions.  We found out that 180 boys and a few older men were entering the Temple with 14 girls for 15 days but the older men and Oaa were doing 30 days training.  This is a very large number at this special time of Songkran.  They came from 4 villages nearby and you could tell it was a very important event in this part of the country with many flags on display.  In the grounds a large sun tent cover the size of a football pitch had been roughly made from Bamboo poles and palm leaves for the ceremony and with no Temple their Buddha figure was standing in the corner of the small Meeting House.  Otherwise it was a very poor Temple serving a very poor farming area producing rice and cattle.   

The next day we arrived early at the home for the Haircutting Ceremony.  It was then we found out that 4 members of Oad’s extended family were going into the temple as Monks.  Oad at 21 was the oldest and the youngest was 8 so all the family of 30 to 40 members had gathered at the main house.  We were made to feel so welcome it was humbling and very touching; we shared what they had in food and drink, even the special white whiskey and rice wine had been brewed for the event but it was so strong I had to sip it only and pass it on.   For the haircutting the four boys each holding three lotus flowers and joss sticks in hand were lined up on chairs in the yard and Father and Mother started the cutting by snipping a lock of hair off the head of each one.
 

It was then the turn of everyone, including me, to take up the scissors and snip away, the hair was collected in Lotus leaves and I assume saved by the family.  Father then started the head shaving procedure with hair clippers and a razor to finish.  One other thing had to be done and that was shaving the eyebrows off which looked a bit rough to me as the razor was a bit blunt by then. In the end four bare heads were on parade and it was time for them to get dressed Oad in white robes and the boys in white shirt and tartan sarongs.  While the old ladies gathered together to chat the younger ones cooked for the large family on two open fires out the back of the house,
it was lunch time!

 

After a simple lunch the oldest Uncle called the family together by chanting on a microphone which was connected to 6 speakers outside so the whole village of some 20 houses could hear the Isaan music and his chanting.  The atmosphere was building, or was it carrying on from the party the night before.  White Whiskey and Rice Wine were continually offered and a sip again was enough.   In the simple farm house without furniture the mats had been set and a simple Temple Alter of the offerings to the Temple and the boy’s saffron robes had been set up. 

The boys knelt before it and the family sat around them as the chanting continued read from a very old book of torn pages with writing all over it.  Responses from the family showed it was a happy time not solemn in any way, typical Buddhist Religion.  Water was sprayed for safe long life, then rice was thrown over them to show good fortune and I was invited to join in with a plate of rice set aside for my use, as I did the whole family cheered and laughed, I was part of the family, it was very moving.  A Temple string was wrapped around the boys and the offerings and then the whole family were included in a coming together as one family as the string wrapped them all together.  I have to admit I was close to tears, here was this family who had nearly nothing by western standards and they were together sharing everything they had and enjoying this most important occasion in a happy caring way.  The wrist strings were next as each family member friends and I went up to each boy to tie a good luck string round his wrist but there was money tied to the strings 20 baht, 100, or a lucky 500 for the boys to keep, but mostly it was a baht coin, 5 or 10 on a plate, all each person could afford.   I was also given over 35 good luck strings from the youngest to the oldest grandmother and a 20 baht note!   The party was continuing outside and I saw a couple of the older ladies being carried away on a hand truck well out of this world.

It was then time to go to the Temple for the Parade.  There were about 20 vehicles of all shapes and sizes including lorries, tractor and trailers ready to be used by all the people going to be Monks and all their supports and families.  It was a bit of Thai chaos for a while then a few pick-ups started off and we all fell in behind.  Sun umbrellas were for sun protection I thought but had a double purpose later on. 

The Parade with Head Monk up front who organised each stop was going on a journey of some 15 km around four of the local villages, many walking for the first part then hitching a lift on anything with wheels for the remaining part.  It was a happy time, music blaring from the speakers and Isaan dancing by all, even me.  As we came on houses people would appear to cheer and wave, it was noticeable that the majority of children by far were boys in this area!  

As we processed the gentle water throwing started as in all real Songkran Festivals we were out to get a bit wet but at each stop villagers offered cold drinking water and other foods for all, which I estimated to be about 300 by now on the parade.  It was great fun and only by being part of the ‘family’ could you see this! 

The parade ended back at the Temple where the family made their offerings to the Temple and the boys had to go for more teaching so we left, missing another Isaan party that night, but returned the next day for the formal Monk Ceremony.

The Novice Monk Ceremony – Day Three

The Temple and villagers had arranged a massive catering department and food was flowing for all when we arrived.  The trainee Monks all sat in the Meeting House lined up in rows with names and coloured labels like in teams.  The families serve all and we as the only two Farangs there were offered many times to join them which we did but the food was very spicy for me, but what do you expect in Isaan?   

As we waited under a tree enjoying the shade a number of the younger boys gathered to look at and touch us, some I am sure had never seen a Farang before others were just curious but happy smiles from all soon had a rapport going and a silly finger game soon had them laughing and others joined us.  Just shaking hands was a fun thing for them and a few odd words in English were coming forward.

Then out of the crowd a boy spoke to us in perfect English using a wonderful accent as if he had Oxford training.  He was 13 years old and had learnt English from school, books and TV but it was the accent that had us in wonder.  He later brought his sister of 15 to meet us and she also spoke good English but where the accent came from no one knows both parents were local Thai.  We had a short time with his school book and he asked us if ‘we come tomorrow’ for more time together for talk practise, but we were returning to Bangkok so had to miss that.  He and a few others were a real find in Isaan!

Before the main event I was taken by Oad and his father to the Temple organiser’s tent to make my contribution to the Temple.  By request I handed over a large box of milk powder, sugar and Milo drink, it cost me about 900 baht only and my name was entered into the book of offerings.

It was then time to gather in the tent again for the main ceremony as all the trainees sat in lines before the Head Monks of the District.  First the chosen family head handed the saffron robes to each trainee, in Oad’s case his mother did this and the Monk gave a short talk which carried many jokes as the audience and trainees were laughing many times, again formal Buddhism but fun. 

Then the family members withdraw to watch and the trainees in age order moved forward to offer the robes to a Monk for a blessing, he then returns the robes and the boy's go off to change in the Meeting House.  Getting dressed in saffron robes only must be an art form as many had it wrong and several other Monks were on hand to adjust the cloth into its correct position, very complicated it looked but in the end all was well and photos all round were in order. 

They went back to the tent as Novice Monks, the Head Monk started more instruction and it was time for us to leave and for Oad to start his 30 days of early morning calls, two simple meals a day and loads of Buddhist instruction in what I was told is the most important day in a Thai boy’s life.   If you get a chance to go do so it is an experience I would happily repeat, I believe there are many other different styles of Monk making ceremony held in other parts of the country but with a total cost to me of about 15000 baht including hire car, hotel, offerings and beer for party, it helped me to understand many great things about Thailand. The boys and their loyalty to family as providers and to appreciate the hospitality of simple country folk with huge hearts.  This was a personally moving trip into real Thailand for me that I will remember all my life!  31.03.2004.

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